Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
